“To be happy you must have taken
The measure of your powers, tasted the
Fruits of your passion, and learned
Your place in the world”
-Santayana
It is no surprise Blackberry Farm was named the number one resort in North America by Travel and Leisure last year. It is my favorite place in the world. This pastoral piece of heaven is in the Great Smokey Mountains just South of Knoxville, TN and revolves around gourmet, local, and artisanal food. Days are spent eating but for short interruptions to fly fish, hike, enjoy a wine tasting, explore the gardens, watch the sheep (and their guard lamas), and, if you are lucky, encounter the truffle dogs. The service is impeccable and the beds memorable. Best of all, after every single bite of food, you will be tempted to say, “this is the best I have ever had.”
John's Facebook Default Picture
There is one man who sets this inn apart from the rest. The master gardener, John Coykendall, is a Renaissance man passionate about collecting beans. I was lucky enough to stumble into his garden during my first visit to Blackberry Farm; hours later, I left promising to write and return again soon. One year later my family was lucky enough to visit again; this time, we came with my 93 year old grandfather. We headed straight to see John. He welcomed us with open arms and said he had been looking forward to our visit. After another afternoon in the garden, my grandfather left promising to write and return again soon. John could capture the heart of a 20 year old and a 93 year old. The plates in the dining barn are rimmed with his etchings; he carries a sketchbook with him at all times; he is a personal friend to every white beet or walking onion in the garden. John just returned from a trip to Romania where he “collected many new beans and friends,” as he wrote in a recent letter to me. I hang his letters on my wall as art because his handwriting is so beautiful and because the pages are peppered with drawings.
My family at Blackberry Farm in 2011
John has the bluest eyes I have ever seen. They sparkle as he talks and make you question if his wrinkles and white hair are real. He wears overalls everyday and showers me in gifts of black butterbeans, lemongrass, and praise. But I wonder if the outfit is simply a costume. I know there is more to this mystery man. He lives on Scenic Drive; he has the means to travel the world; his closest relatives are senators. He is too serene, too generous, too kind, too loving. When asked what he did before he came to Blackberry Farm, winking he says, “oh, nothing as wonderful as this.” Who IS this person? He is just like Blackberry farm – magical.
“When shall we live if not now?” ― M.F.K. Fisher
Inspired by The Gastronomical Me by M. F. K. Fisher.
Pleasures of the Table 